The Désert des Agriates, a vast expanse of wild scrubland on Haute-Corse’s north coast, offers one of the most otherworldly gravel routes in France: an arid, preserved landscape dotted with isolated beaches reachable only on foot or by bike, just a few kilometres from Cap Corse.
A route between scrubland and wild beaches
From Saint-Florent, a picturesque port at the head of its gulf, the route heads into the fire-break tracks that criss-cross the Désert des Agriates, a site protected by the Conservatoire du littoral where dense scrubland (myrtle, rock rose, mastic) covers hilly, rocky terrain.
The route reaches Plage du Loto or Plage de Saleccia, two of Corsica’s most celebrated beaches, accessible only by track or by boat — a striking contrast between the arid scrubland crossed and the immaculate white sand of these preserved coves. Allow around 45 km and 700 m of climbing for a full loop, a demanding route due to the isolation and rugged terrain.
How to approach the ride
The area’s remoteness is the main challenge: no water or food is available once you’re into the desert, and phone signal can drop out in places. Serious preparation (water, food, a full repair kit) is essential before heading out, ideally letting someone know your route.
A wide gravel tyre with a knobby tread (40-45mm) handles the area’s rocky and sometimes sandy tracks better than a narrow, slick tyre.
When to go
Spring (April to June) and early autumn (September-October) offer the best conditions: milder heat, scrubland in bloom in spring with its characteristic scents, and lower fire risk than in high summer, when access to some tracks can be restricted.
Good to know
Saint-Florent, a lively seaside resort in summer, has a decent choice of accommodation and a few bike rental shops; it’s worth booking gear ahead in high tourist season, as Corsica is a much sought-after summer destination.