In the Cambrian Mountains of Wales, the Elan Valley hides a chain of Victorian dam lakes, built in the late 19th century to supply Birmingham with drinking water. The cycle trail running along the shores, largely following a former railway line, makes it an accessible family ride through a spectacular landscape.
A trail on a former railway line
From Rhayader, the Elan Valley Trail follows the route of the old railway built to carry materials for the dam works, keeping a mostly flat profile over about 13 km up to Craig Goch, the highest and northernmost dam in the network. The first stretch, tarmacked up to the Garreg Ddu viaduct, then gives way to a rougher compacted trail.
“Birmingham Baroque” dams
Caban Coch dam, the closest to Rhayader, sets the architectural tone for the whole network: massive dressed stonework in a style sometimes nicknamed “Birmingham Baroque,” a far cry from the usual utilitarian industrial look of this kind of structure.
When to go
April to October, with a preference for spring and early autumn, quieter than summer. The unsurfaced northern section of the trail can get muddy after heavy rain, which is common in this part of Wales.
Good to know
Rhayader has most of the services you’d need (bike hire, accommodation, food) before heading into a valley with limited amenities: the Cambrian Mountains remain a remote area with patchy mobile coverage, which also makes it one of the UK’s best spots for stargazing.
